The day was lingering, one week away, I found myself scrambling to finalize plans and provide a Valentine's Day that would be romantic and adventurous, something that could please her and him. I had previously spent V-Day in San Antonio and the adage crossed my mind, "If it ain't broke don't fix it." However, after seeing the price differential from just a couple of years ago, my college budget decided to take another avenue. I was still fond of the Texas hill country and wanted to find a spot that could satisfy both budget and pleasure. It had been decided, the Spirit of Adventure was lifting off and the destination would be New Braunfels, TX.
DRIVE-IN/ARRIVAL:
Although I have frequented New Braunfels, I have always been there to enjoy access to the Guadalupe and Comal rivers, tubing the year round, slightly frigid, 70 degree water. The 2013/2014 winter was more chilly than usual in Texas and as much as it hurt my heart, this trip would not include a relaxing float through the meandering tributary. I had to start thinking a bit outside the box and move a way from the camping and tubing model. This led me to find the Faust Hotel, located in historic downtown, a 1920's art deco designed establishment that moonlights as a craft brewery. My grandparents had stayed in this same hotel decades ago and reminisced over its quaint tranquility. I booked a European room for Valentine's night ($89), after heeding warning that the room was quite cozy and afforded minimal stretching space. Further research on the hotel revealed a haunted past that was easily embraced by the depression era hallways and creaky floorboards. Upon arrival, we found the hotel to be quite welcoming, the room was snug, as described, but offered an air of individuality, complete with a small, flat screen TV (enabling us to cheer on Team USA during the Sochi Winter Olympics). Our only complaint was the thin walls, which did not conceal the sound of the adjoining room's plumbing. The stay was complete with our own version of a paranormal event, as a picture frame was found tilted when turning in for the night (queue spooky soundtrack).
FRIDAY - VALENTINE'S NIGHT:
After settling into the hotel room, I completed a quick wardrobe change into Texas attire, complete with a Texas flag button down, jeans, boots, and a Stetson hat. We headed three miles down the road to Gruene Historical District for dinner and a concert. The square was packed on Friday night, but we were fortunate to find an open spot, outside of the vast parking lots, before strolling into the Gristmill, a restaurant that has been converted from an old cotton gin, sitting on the Guadalupe River. The Gristmill does not take reservations, a plus in my book (especially due to the uncertainty surrounding arrival times for the weekend). The hostess told us the wait would be about 45 minutes, which was not a problem because of the great outdoor area that the Gristmill offers, complete with a giant chalkboard to watch for your party's name, an outdoor bar that still had an inventory of Shiner Cheer (Who says Santa only comes once a year!?), and country music emanating from Gruene Hall. We were seated along the banks of the Guadalupe River, however the darkness was hiding most of the amazing view you can absorb in the sunlight. After sampling the Texas sized onion rings that were truly bar none ($7), I ordered the Valentine's Day special that consisted of an 8 oz. NY strip steak, 3 bacon wrapped gulf shrimp (top tier), mashed potatoes, and a wedge salad ($25). My date ordered the bacon wrapped filet with homemade mashed potatoes, and a Caesar salad ($20). We enjoyed the delicious, country fare while gazing at the Texas sky and welcomed by a single red rose in a Lone Star long neck (priceless).
Feeling completely satisfied from a succulent spread, we walked next door to enjoy some live music at Texas' oldest dance hall, Gruene Hall. Friday night offered the talents of the Rankin Twins, country stars who graduated from Texas A&M University, and Bri Bagwell, a country star based in Austin, Texas. We paid a $5 cover and headed to the dance floor to kick up some dust as we listened to a wide variety of originals, covers, and even a duet, Seven Spanish Angels (a personal favorite). My Valentine and I admired the unique atmosphere and two stepped the night away, under the Texas stars and the Gruene water tower, before returning to our room for the evening.
SATURDAY - LOCKHART, TX:
I woke up Saturday morning to the faint memory that our hotel offered a free breakfast, surprisingly I rolled out of bed before it had ended. We sat down to a meal of biscuits and gravy, bagels and cream cheese, and a side of granola cereal mixed with yogurt (it reminded me of the meals served in the hostels throughout Europe). We checked out of the Faust, put the luggage in the car, and prepared to explore downtown New Braunfels. Our first stop was mainly for a bathroom break at Scores Sports Bar, where we winded up playing three games of competitive 8 ball, nothing better than a Valentine that can go toe to toe in pool. Waiting for the rest of the party to finish one last trip to the ladies room, I sat on a metal bench outside of the New Braunfels Art Gallery and watched a train roll by carrying cars and cars of petroleum products, thinking to myself, only in Texas. Later we stopped by an antique shop filled with aisles and aisles of memorabilia, furniture, and knick knacks, but walked out empty handed. We strolled passed the courthouse, an elegant limestone structure with a withered lawn, before dropping by Naegelin's Bakery. Opening the door, we were greeted by the aroma of fresh breads and pastries. I see the jalapeno and sausage kolache and immediately fall in love, but after hearing another customer rave over the strudel, I add a slice of peach just to be on the safe side ($5). The delicious, flaky pastries were devoured with a continuous sound of mmmmm and washed down by a Henry Weinhard Black Cherry Cream. Crossing the street for the last time, we make one final stop at the Faust Brewing Co. taste testing the Bourbon Stout, a limited edition brew for the season, while watching curling on the Olympics.
We saddled up for the next leg of the journey Saturday afternoon as we cruised out of New Braufels, travelling east down TX 142 into Lockhart, TX. This was a slightly spontaneous leg of the adventure, but we found ourselves pleasantly surprised. After doing a bit of research, we happened upon Lockhart State Park, a relatively small natural area that offers a variety of activities including tent/RV camping, hiking, a nine-hole golf course, and a small creek. I used my Texas State Parks Pass to avoid the $3 per person entry fee as we passed through the gates and climbed a winding road to access some of the more challenging trails. Fortunately, I had packed the Chacos and had the opportunity to wear them for the first time this year, with beautiful weather and temperatures in the 70s. I did not want to simply hike, although the amazing views would have made that quite enjoyable, I wanted to do a bit of further exploration. My desire led me to find geocaching. I had heard about this activity, which consists of locating a "cache" or an item by navigating to specific geographical coordinates, in middle school, but had yet been to experience it for myself. Upon finding the cache, you sign your name and can exchange a treasure that is of equal or greater value than what you take, noting the views and obstacles you encounter along the way. After some frustration and using two different phones, we were able to track down the cache (Lockhart Loot), a rewarding search, where we added our names to the notebook and traded a Faust Hotel notepad for a SillyBand in the shape of an astronaut (I thought this was a cool find). We hiked the rest of the park listening to William Clark Green's Rose Queen album, encountering cacti, perimeter fencing, and multiple dams, before returning to the car with grumbling bellies.
About 5:00 PM Saturday evening, we rolled into downtown Lockhart, a classic square structure focused around city hall. We decided to virtually starve ourselves before trying one of Lockhart's legendary barbecue joints and took a relaxing stroll. A man strumming an acoustic guitar to familiar tunes (Landslide by Fleetwood Mac) drew us into Texana Lane Antique & Boutique. It turns out the shop is located in the third oldest building in Lockhart and houses the oldest, working freight elevator in central Texas (the more you know). We looked at cowboy boots, Coca-Cola collectibles, and sampled local salsa before giving our gratitude to the store clerk. The antique store on the corner across the way, Fields Stable Antique Mall, was set in a boring building, but played host to unique pieces, such as a wall of salt & pepper shakers, Native American/cowboy clothing, and a replica of a Jean Lafitte pirate ship (a privateer who called Galveston home). After procuring another treasure from the trip, the wooden vessel, we left the antique shop, filled with the nauseous fumes of a chain smoker.
BLACK'S BARBECUE:
Our appetite was overwhelming as the sun began to set across the horizon, so we hurried to Black's Barbecue, one of the oldest pits in the state. As we entered the door, we were met with endless pictures and write-ups of owners, Norma and Edgar Black, with celebrities including President Lyndon B Johnson. After waiting in the line, we finally made it to the serving area, home to the classic smokey smell that I truly love. I loaded on a scoop of coleslaw and pinto beans, two essential accessories to every plate of barbecue, in my opinion, next to pork baby back ribs, moist brisket, and a link of jalapeno cheese sausage ($15). Finding a spot in the outside picnic area, we settled down to feast. Much to our dismay, the food that was raved about in online reviews and even made the Texas Monthly Top 50, was staunchly mediocre. Not to say that the barbecue was inedible, quite the opposite, we still savored the meal, however the brisket was slightly dry and lacked a full smokey flavor, the pork baby back ribs, although appealing to the eye, were of no greater quality than the local steakhouse. But alas, we cut open the link of jalapeno cheese sausage that had a thick casing and juicy insides. This sausage was, quite possibly, the best I had ever introduced to my taste buds, with a perfect balance of smoke and spice. The sausage was the only item, which we ordered, that put competitors to shame and merited the drive to Lockhart (the sausage was superior, however the brisket and ribs are analogous to a little league baseball team when compared to Franklin Barbecue of Austin, akin to the 1998 New York Yankees).
THE JOURNEY HOME:
The satisfying Texas classic gave us plenty of fuel to make the trek back home. Looking in my rear view mirror on highway 21, I believe I successfully pulled off Valentine's weekend, even with the odds stacked against me (and every other guy for that matter). My Valentine and I boarded the Spirit of Adventure and never ceased to be fascinated by the endless treasures that Texas hides behind every nook and cranny, always craving for more.
CMH #TXtourist
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